This face plate originally originally came in upside down into the replicator software, and I know one of Gaels objectives is not to have to do supports. So I printed it as is upside down, and it worked without supports for me. I'm currently printing with PLA, but Gael prints with ABS, so I think possibly either material would work ok upside down without supports.
Or did you print upside down - and still you had the problem? I can't tell - it looks good to me :)
I printed the V3 version of the eyes. It was upside down and I also used no brim. Had it not broken off of the base at 95% I would have still used the piece. As is though I am afraid it will not fit up correctly. I will take another run at it tonight with the supports and report back.
makes sense now..
Looks like a nice print (couldn't tell its missing 5%)..
What type of printer do you use ?
Material abs / pla ?
Print bed material ?
I'm working with a Replicator 2 (closed source .. booooo!), PLA, and we put blue tape on the print bed. We have 4 spools of filament - Black and White work great, Clear is untested, and Orange you can not print at all - it warps, shrinks and rarely sticks..
My printer is one I hacked together our of an old Fisnar glue robot. Gutted all of the old controls and replaced
all 3 axis with SIMO actuators from the company I work for. I call the whold contraption the Fistnatustein because of the mix and match parts. x and y axis are 10 x 25 integrated lead screws on N17 steppers. Z axis is a 10 x 2 lead screw integrated on a N17 stepper. 300 x 300 x 250 build platform. Heated bed bed plate is .188 inch thick aluminum plate. Works out well. I print everything in PLA 3mm. Using and direct drive j-head hot end. .4 mm nozzle diameter. I am able to print either through the LCD panel or the USB. I'm really pleased with the printer. I have printed down to .1mm layer height with outstanding results just adds a ton of time to the prints. I also use the blue tape on my aluminum bed plate. Its consistent enough for what I am doing. I dont want to spend the extra money on the Kapton tape. As a side bar I am currently working on my own filament extruder. Once I can produce my own filament I will build a couple more printers. I am thinking an oversized Delta design. At the prices I currently pay for filament I have to do something to bring that price more inline.
I just have fun with it, and enjoy it. Anything mechanical has always consumed my attention. I have Maker in my blood I think.
I printed the part upside down too. It should be fine upside down and don't worry about the eyelids because they are not used later. They are built in support and disposable. Popping off at 95% is a bit of a cosmetic problem but it looks like you got the screw holes printed so you can probably use it. You will just have a gap below it. I would use a 5mm brim. I do that with most parts to prevent warping and ensure sticking.
Nice post. This face plate
Nice post.
This face plate originally originally came in upside down into the replicator software, and I know one of Gaels objectives is not to have to do supports. So I printed it as is upside down, and it worked without supports for me. I'm currently printing with PLA, but Gael prints with ABS, so I think possibly either material would work ok upside down without supports.
Or did you print upside down - and still you had the problem? I can't tell - it looks good to me :)
Hope this might help.
Printing The Eyes
Thanks Grog,
I printed the V3 version of the eyes. It was upside down and I also used no brim. Had it not broken off of the base at 95% I would have still used the piece. As is though I am afraid it will not fit up correctly. I will take another run at it tonight with the supports and report back.
Dwayne
Ahhhh, makes sense
Ahhhh,
makes sense now..
Looks like a nice print (couldn't tell its missing 5%)..
What type of printer do you use ?
Material abs / pla ?
Print bed material ?
I'm working with a Replicator 2 (closed source .. booooo!), PLA, and we put blue tape on the print bed. We have 4 spools of filament - Black and White work great, Clear is untested, and Orange you can not print at all - it warps, shrinks and rarely sticks..
Printer and Settings for InMoov
My printer is one I hacked together our of an old Fisnar glue robot. Gutted all of the old controls and replaced
all 3 axis with SIMO actuators from the company I work for. I call the whold contraption the Fistnatustein because of the mix and match parts. x and y axis are 10 x 25 integrated lead screws on N17 steppers. Z axis is a 10 x 2 lead screw integrated on a N17 stepper. 300 x 300 x 250 build platform. Heated bed bed plate is .188 inch thick aluminum plate. Works out well. I print everything in PLA 3mm. Using and direct drive j-head hot end. .4 mm nozzle diameter. I am able to print either through the LCD panel or the USB. I'm really pleased with the printer. I have printed down to .1mm layer height with outstanding results just adds a ton of time to the prints. I also use the blue tape on my aluminum bed plate. Its consistent enough for what I am doing. I dont want to spend the extra money on the Kapton tape. As a side bar I am currently working on my own filament extruder. Once I can produce my own filament I will build a couple more printers. I am thinking an oversized Delta design. At the prices I currently pay for filament I have to do something to bring that price more inline.
I just have fun with it, and enjoy it. Anything mechanical has always consumed my attention. I have Maker in my blood I think.
Dwayne
Use Brim
I printed the part upside down too. It should be fine upside down and don't worry about the eyelids because they are not used later. They are built in support and disposable. Popping off at 95% is a bit of a cosmetic problem but it looks like you got the screw holes printed so you can probably use it. You will just have a gap below it. I would use a 5mm brim. I do that with most parts to prevent warping and ensure sticking.